When Ajax of Amsterdam was founded, in 1900, its board wrote to my club asking permission to use the name Ajax. We granted it, but said we would review the matter a hundred years later. Ajax agreed. Sadly, by the time 2000 rolled around it turned out that ASC had mislaid Ajax's letter. The Amsterdammers have thus retained their name.
In the 1970s Ajax of Amsterdam was still a neighbourhood club rather like ASC. It just happened to be the best neighbourhood club in the world. Ajax won three consecutive European Cups between 1971 and 1973, with a team consisting mainly of local boys who would provide the nucleus of the 'naranja mecánica'. Barry Hulshoff, the bearded socialist who was then the Ajax centre-back, ran into an old man in a Greek mountain village many years later. 'He took my hands and held them and he cried,' Hulshoff recalls. 'It went on for four or five minutes. I was very embarrassed. I just didn't know what was going on. Later my translator explained it. He said there was no television in the village, so this old man used to walk for two hours to reach another village to watch Ajax games on television. The man had loved Ajax and now, in front of him, he saw one of the players he used to watch.'
The players whom the Greek had watched came predominantly from Amsterdam-East. Sjaak Swart, the Ajax outside-right, and Piet Keizer, the outside-left, grew up around the corner from each other a short walk from the old Ajax ground. Johan Cruyff, the centre-forward, as a child used to wander up the road to watch the Ajax first team train.
Last December I met Swart in his restaurant above an ice rink, just behind where the old Ajax stadium had stood. 'The other day,' said Swart, 'I walked into the canteen at the new Ajax ground and Johan and Pietje were sitting there. And I come in and I shout, 'There they are again, the great forward-line!'
Then they all had a cup of coffee. I can imagine a similar scene at ASC. So rooted are almost all Dutchmen in club culture that when a star retires, he often instantly finds himself another, lesser club. Swart played nearly twenty years of amateur football after retiring from Ajax. Wim Meutstege, an Ajax player in the late 1970s, later joined ASC. Frank Rijkaard, another Ajax man and the current manager of Holland, plays for the third veterans' eleven of his local club, Abcoude.
Rijkaard, still only 37 years old, told me: 'We have a nice team, a team of friends, and for an hour and a half we chase, run, play football. Well, fantastic! And then you've sweated, you've done something, and you go into the canteen and drink a beer and chat about the game. Often you have a nice opponent, have a joke along the way. I have no aspirations to anything more.'
This winter I watched Rijkaard's contemporary, Ruud Gullit, play for the fifth team of an Amsterdam club named AFC. The opponents were the third eleven of a club called OSDO, and there were about 20 spectators, one of whom remarked to his son: 'Look, that's Ruud Gullit.' 'Does he play for OSDO?' the boy asked. The father was chocked: 'Ruud Gullit, who played in Italy and for the Dutch team! You know him, don't you?' 'Yeah, yeah, you're kidding me,' said the boy. One could understand the child's doubts, because by half-time Gullit's side were 5-0 down, though they eventually recovered to lose just 5-3. Yet Gullit looked happy. Once or twice he almost scored, but on each occasion he missed the ball entirely. After the game he shook everyone's hand and congratulated the pygmy woman referee. As he walked off the pitch, he exclaimed to no one in particular: 'The second half was better!' We have all left the field on a Saturday afternoon thinking exactly that.
The mere fact that almost everyone in Holland plays football cannot itself explain the country's success. Until the 1970s Dutch football was mediocre. Holland would occasionally lose to Luxembourg, and considered their main rivals to be Belgium.
It was Johan Cruyff who made the Dutch good at football, but it took me a while to realise this. In October 1976, when I first began to ponder these questions, Cruyff was starting to disappear from the scene. He still played for Barcelona, but had already said he would skip the World Cup in Argentina. He retired from football in 1978. Then, discovering that he had lost all his money in a pig-farming venture, he began playing again in the US.
So I got an inkling of who he was only on December 6, 1981, when he returned to Ajax. This little man, whose body had been wrecked by two decades of chain-smoking and being kicked, astounded me most Sundays for the next three years. I remember a penalty-kick he took on December 5, 1982 against Helmond Sport. Instead of shooting in the conventional manner, he passed the ball forward and to his left. There his team-mate Jesper Olsen, running into the penalty area, collected it, and passed it back to Cruyff, who placed the ball in an empty net while the Helmond keeper watched open-mouthed and motionless.
Cruyff shaped all Dutch footballers: Gullit and Rijkaard who played with him, the Dutchmen who will appear at Euro 2000, and all of us at ASC. The main change he unwittingly effected in Leiden was to get us talking about football. Cruyff himself, when he later became a manager, was to complain: 'The moment you open your mouth to breathe, Dutch footballers say, `Yes, but... that was his own fault. Cruyff was the man who turned Dutch football into a sort of academic debating society. 'Football is a game you play with your head,' he once said. Other countries do not see it that way. I once asked Gullit to compare the English, the Italians and the Dutch. 'In a Dutch changing room,' he said, 'everyone thinks he knows best. In an Italian changing room everybody probably also thinks he knows best, but nobody dares to tell the manager. And in an English changing room, they just have a laugh.'
I have interviewed British chief executives, Argentine generals and Ukrainian mafiosi, but the most talkative people I know are Dutch footballers. You speak to them for an hour and a half, ask every question you can think of, and when you finally turn off the tape recorder they hold forth for another half hour. Sjaak Swart, who told me at the start of the interview that he had no time, said, when I finally managed to cut him short: 'Another cup of coffee, boy?' I will be rooting for the Dutch this month. And I know they are the most gifted team in the championship. But I expect them to lose. That is because the Dutch think that winning is beside the point.
I realised this ten years ago when I took my football team on a tour of Holland. We won our first match 8-0, and afterwards, over a beer in the canteen, one of our Dutch opponents said to me: 'But of course we played the better football.' He meant that his team had combined better, thought harder, played the prettier game, whereas we had merely been brutish. He was talking nonsense, but he was making a common Dutch point: that playing 'good football' matters more than winning.
To the Dutch, 'good football' is the passing, thinking, balletic game invented by Cruyff. The master himself has taken to saying that Holland 'really' won the World Cup of 1974, even though they lost in the final. How so? 'Well', says Cruyff, 'everyone still remembers the beautiful football Holland played, and that is a victory more enduring than mucky gauges like final scores.'
Guus Hiddink, coach of the Dutch side that reached the semi-finals of the 1998 World Cup playing beautiful football, said later: 'You have to say that our style, our philosophy has impressed the world and that's what I'm proud of.' He added: 'I don't know if I'd have been happy with a World Cup won in a bad way. We couldn't have done that.' No coach of any other country could have said that. Rijkaard told me that he wants to turn Dutch players into winners. This summer, he won't be happy if Holland end up with plaudits but no prize. Or so he says. Win or lose, come autumn he will be chasing after the ball at Abcoude again.
http://www.ajax-sc.nl/voetbal/kuper.html